When the Wine was Out of Place

This Friday I had the opportunity of being part of a very special dinner. Masala Bay (at Taj Land’s End, Bandra) hosted a food tasting and an interactive session with Chef Abida Rashid, who had specially cooked what could only be described as a royal feast. Hailing from Calicut, Chef Abida’s culinary expertise lies in Moplah cuisine, of north Kerala. The food she served was rich in spice, coconut and history.

The Taj aims to share these food traditions with it’s customers, and with Chef Abida’s help has tried to elevate Moplah cuisine to what is conventionally thought of as a ‘fine dining’. Though I commend the effort, I cannot but question popular notions of what fine dining really is. It didn’t sit well with me, that what should have been an Indian thali style meal, was restructured and served in multiple courses with wine as an accompaniment. Since I was eating Indian food, I was hoping for an Indian fine dining experience. Why not eat the way Indian royalty eats, with heavy thalis, ornate bartans and silver katoris? Would that not be the way to do justice to the food and culture that it comes from? The way food is eaten is as relevant to a fine dining experience as the food itself, and am strongly against such westernization Indian cuisine.

I would very willingly trade in my wine glass for a class of cool Roohafsa, Kokam sharbat or Jal Jeera, which would have eased the spices in my meal. I felt absurd trying to eat a fish Biryani with a fork. I felt like my cutlery kept getting in my way and my food quite literally turned cold in yearning for the the touch of warm hands. I am not being Nationalist, I have nothing against the poor wine, I’d gladly drink wine while eating a steak. But when I have pappadums on my plate, I think wine is out of place.

Café Mangii (J.P.Road, Versova)

Sigh! **

For about a month I’d been tryin to peep in through Café Mangi’s large windows, and catch a glimpse of what promised to be elegant interiors. I subtly sighed everytime I drove past hoping my hints would prompt a date night. Finally my sighs were heard and I can drive by in peace without straining my respiratory system.

On a cold winter’s evening, the first floor dining space was perfectly warm and cosy. The open air dining space on the roof was definitely tempting, but I just wasn’t ready to brave the cold. It certainly is charming though, with a visible pizza oven emitting mouth waiting aromas.

Unfortunately, here’s when I began to sigh again. This time they were sighs of exasperation. We started with a plate of Mushroom Aglio Olio e Pepperoncino; nothing spectacular and unexpectedly spicy. We were expecting a salad, but our Alla Fiama pizza came out first. Since the place boasts of its pizzas we really had our hopes up. However, it was mediocre at best, the topping was sparse and the base a little burnt. The pizza too was spicier than we expected.

Now here’s where it got downright disappointing, the Caprese salad was a neatly arranged line of tomato slices and buffalo cheese, topped with pesto sauce. I was promised “field greens” ! Somehow the elaborate description on the menu did not lead me to expect what I was served. Lastly, we ordered a medium-rare Minute Steak, which was served to us well done, with partially uncooked potato wedges and almost rare broccoli florets. By this point I was ready to cry, partly from rage and partly because of the big hole this disappointing meal was about to burn in my pocket.

Since we were still hungry, we ordered a Caramel Banana pie, in a last feeble attempt to redeem the meal. We didn’t have our hopes up, but we were finally served something delicious. It didn’t save the meal, and I certainly won’t be visiting Café Mangii again, but at least I know where to get a damn good Caramel Banana pie.

Damages: Rs.2500 for a meal for two, without drinks.

Fellas

jolly good fella ***

I’m the kind that likes the corner bookstore with a friendly bespectacled owner who’s always up for a chat, as opposed to the Landmark / Crossword variety, where books are tracked by a computer. (The kind often touted ‘romantic’ )  Much the same vein I’m drawn to cafes with soul where every cup of coffee does not have the same sort of factory made uniformity. Lucky for me, Mumbai has an increasing population of these sort of joints, tucked away in easy-to-miss corners of the city. Fella’s is one such. I must admit, my first visit was prompted by a very prominent sign outside which reads ‘Valet Parking’, a real treat in Khar/Bandra’s always packed by-lanes.

This first visit however, was followed by several more. Built in the garage space of a building, Fella’s offers juices, smoothies, wraps, sandwiches and pizzas. It seems to have it’s patrons ; always a few hanging around reading or working at their computers ( they have wi-fi ). On any odd day you are likely to have their two resident pet pooches for company: a rottweiler and a bull-mastiff, who hang out on the periphery nonchalantly. The staff is polite and enthusiastic, service is quick.

What I particularly like about the place is that they make fresh juices & smoothies ( not with canned fruit or poured straight out of tetra-packs ). Their coffee is not remarkable. The sandwiches and wraps are wholesome; and make a good snack. I like the Chicken Cilantro Wrap. The whole grain pizzas are fairly enjoyable, though the topping choices are limited and the crust is always a little on the burnt side. They do serve main course dishes , but I’ve only ever visited the place for a snack.  If what I’ve had so far is any indication, I don’t think you will be disappointed. All in all, it’s definitely a nice place to meet-n-greet or maybe just spend some alone time.

Location – 14th Road Khar West.

Damages – Rs. 200 – 300 / head

Eat Around the Corner

Nip-n-tuck(in) ***

Bombay’s restaurants much like it’s population are in perpetual state of flux. Restaurants get bought over, renamed, revamped and made-over to whet Bombay’s unending appetite for the ‘new and improved’. The case in point, the swanky white washed ‘Eat around the Corner’ that used to be ‘Just around the corner’. The name is definitely a downgrade, but the place has received some much needed nips-n-tucks which makes it once again youthful and perky.

There are certain nice touches to the eating experience, the service is quick, the salad bar has a fair variety and it is one of the only joints that has a much needed community table. (Which by the way is made from beautiful rough cut solid wood, very stylish ) The place wins points for having some great burgers and sandwiches, and a variety of bread options.

You will not be able to resist the desserts. They are strategically laid out right near the cashier’s end of the bar. All mouth-watering and decadent looking, they will call out to you. You would be foolish to resist. I’ve tried the Fruit tart, the Orange Yogurt, the New York Cheesecake, the Baked Lemon Cheesecake, the Blueberry&Chocolate Mousse, and the Chocolate Danish. Visit the place enough times to try out all. I’m about half way there. They’re good enough to feel no guilt, although a workout after always eases the conscience.

In all honesty, the place does feel a little bit over priced, and the pizzas were surprisingly bad. A place that offers such nice sandwiches and deserts must work on their coffees, which are pretty sub-standard. However, you can always wash the coffee down with dessert.

Location – Junction of 24th and 30th Road, Bandra West