Kinaafeh – Palestine’s favourite sweet treat

I had the great privilege of visiting the beautiful Palestinian city of Ramallah, and being shown around by a local. Just a short bus ride away from Jerusalem lies this bustling city, that is totally cut off from the outside world. It’s like a city in a bubble, a distilled concentrate of Palestine’s culture. The chaotic streets have a charm that is alive and boiling. The people are warm, friendly and love Indians. Wherever I looked I was met by welcoming smiles.

After walking around for three hours exploring the streets, Huda our lovely host insisted we try a some middle eatern sweets. Though we were stuffed from trying all sorts of street food, it was hard to resist trying something new. Something I knew I wouldn’t get a chance to feast on again any time soon.

We went to a sweet shop called Eifel sweets. The name of course has nothing to do with what they serve. Since it was post dinner time, the place was packed with families out to indulge in some late night dessert. Though the place makes a whole variety of sweets, we noticed that everyone was eating one same thing. Viscous platefuls of bright orange sat on every single table. The kitchen was churning out large trays of the same steaming dish.

This king of palestinian sweet is called Kinaafeh. It is made with sweet cheese (which is much like cottage cheese or paneer) and topped with a vermicelli like crispy layer, then soaked in sugar syrup and garnished with pistachio nuts. I was intimidated by the description and the portion, but it isn’t very sweet and just melt in the mouth. Though I resisted being served a full plate, it wasn’t long before I had polished the whole thing off. I even wanted more. But my stomach was stretched thin by this point. This experience was definitely one of the culinary highlights of my life.

The little middle eastern kitchen, Ha Mitbachon (Tel Aviv, Israel)

On our first day in Tel Aviv, we decided to have a traditional home style middle eastern meal. The diet here is predominantly meat based (lamb and beef), high on wheat and fresh or pickled vegetables. Stews, soups and one pot broths are cooked at home, eaten either with rice or couscous or bread.

Ha Mitbachon

The word ‘mitbach’ in Hebrew means kitchen, and ‘mitbachon’ is a small kitchen. This now modern very european looking eatery started out as a small canteen where a family cooked and served daily meals. It slowly grew and is now one of the more sophisticated home-style restaurants. The people are warm and friendly, thankfully all the staff speaks english and they have an english menu. Placing our order was easier than most times, when we had to resort to wild gesturing and over-the-top facial expressions. The menu is concise, which also helps.

Beef Stew with Couscous

We decided to have a Beef stew with couscous and Majadara with dil flavored curd. The Beef stew is much like a goulash, wholesome and packed with veggies. The meat was tender, and had evidently beef sitting on the fire for a long long time. The couscous was perhaps the best couscous I’ve had. What I do find odd here is that people here are accustomed to eating dry food. The gravy to rice/bread proportion is significantly lower, and this time too I could have used more gravy. This is probably a cultural difference my palette hasn’t adjusted to.

Majadara

Majadara is rice steamed with lentils and spices, much like the Indian khichdi. However this rice dish is again completely dry and doesn’t have the viscous comforting quality that a khichdi has. However the curd does provide the necessary moisture. I need to cleanse my palette of the usual, and adapt.

A warning to anyone travelling to Israel. Portions here are huge, especially the meat servings. We could not finish a dish each and had to pack some of the food away. In fact in most places I’ve eaten at here, two of us have been able to share on serving. Maybe that’s just cause we Indians and smaller people, and not used to eating so much meat.

Damages: 30-35 shekels per head. ( 420-490Rs per head)

Near Carmel market, Off Allenby, Tel Aviv

Breakfast at Petah Tikva, Israel

After six months of planning this trip to Israel, I’m finally here. This is day 3 of my three week long trip. The first two days were pretty chaotic. Now the dust has settled and I can finally appreciate my beautiful surroundings. I’m not much of a sight-seer and generally avoid the recommended ‘must-see’ ‘must-do’ tourist activities. This morning was ideal, I had no agenda and decided to loiter on the streets, experiencing everyday Petah Tikvah culture.

Petah Tikva is small city east of Tel Aviv. Now you must know that Israel is a very small country, perhaps just as big as my home city Mumbai. So though it is a separate city, Petah Tikva to me feels more like a suburb of Israel’s capital Tel Aviv. It is a relatively quiet peaceful little town with a sparse population and not much to do.

As it is with all towns, the main market or shouk is the busiest part. But even at it’s busiest, it’s pretty laid back.  We planned to grab some breakfast on the way to the shouk. Yesterday I had spotted a small inviting looking bakery and so headed right there, for some freshly made breads. We chose a sweet doughnut, dressed with a little caster sugar. The Israelis make a lot of different kinds of croissants and puffs, influenced by the local sambusac. We picked one stuffed with mushroom and another with potato.The European influence on the food here is very evident. Locals make variants of pretzels, sour dough loafs, Danish pastries etc.  To accompany our spoils from the bakery, we had some local filter coffee. Here they drink coffee like the Turks, without filtering the rinds which leaves a muddy residue in the cup.

The Apron and The Arm #4 Stuffed Honey Mustard Mackerels

 

Mackerels are one of the most nutritious fish, a rich source of omega3 fatty acids. Besides, they are easily found in Mumbai and is one of the cheapest local fish. For all these reasons I find myself eating mackerels at least once a week. However, during the monsoon, the fishing community refrains from eating fish because it is the time when fish breed. Mahashtrian and Konkani people refer to this time as ‘shravan’.

Not everyone follows this practice. But I was brought up by sea loving parents very much in touch with coastal practices. I try to respect nature as much as I can, in my own small way. So this will be my last fish meal for the next 3 months. Sad but necessary. I urge you to reduce, if not stop from consuming fish for a little while as well. Your small step will show the sea that we care.

Stuffed Honey Mustard Mackerels.

Melange ( New Link Road, Andheri West )

Lokhandwala’s New Link Road is probably one of the most crowded and noisy parts of the city. It’s one of young Bombay’s preferred hang out spots with multiple movie theaters, malls and restaurants. It also happens to be one of those areas my zen-seeking self tries to avoid. However, post movie hunger pangs had me seated at Melange : a small easily missed cafe in the heart of the hustle-bustle.

As soon as I walked in I was transported to somewhere more serene. I suddenly felt like I could be anywhere from San Fransisco’s arty avenues to Sydney’s sea-side streets. This lil’ cafe really is designed to be a citizen of the world, from it’s simple elegant tables to the spotless open kitchen.

The menu is concise and yet far from simple. They serve an all day breakfast and a wide selection of coffee, coolers and shakes. The starters and mains are all interesting and it took a while to settle of the Creamy Mushroom Crostini and a Mediterranean Panini. Melange bakes their own bread, and their extra effort really elevates the quality of their dishes. The bread used for both the crostini and the Panini was absolutely beautiful. The crostini had a lovely crisp base and a decadently creamy mushroom topping had just the right amount of cheese. The Mediterranean Panini had beautifully roasted mushy bell peppers and sauteed zucchini which were perfectly complemented by the oven fresh bread.

To end our meal we had a Green Apple Brulee. It had a deliciously crisp crust and was served with some green apple chutney and a buttery biscoti. This is perhaps the best brulee I’ve ever had: the perfect balance, rich yet surprisingly light. I absolutely love the place, and I see myself frequenting it.

All places that strike a cord like Melange, always have an interesting back story. Any project started with passion sets itself up to being more than just a business. My review would not be complete without a mention and salutation to the owner and head chef, Hardik Parekh. His love for coffee lead him to Australia where he worked and learnt the art of coffee making. He opened his own Cafe there, and from his chef learnt how to cook and run a kitchen. With all this knowledge, he came back to Mumbai where he opened Melange. Every recipe on the menu has been created by him.

In a sea of cookie-cutter cafes that all look and feel alike, Melange really stands out. I urge you to visit.

Damages : approx Rs. 250 – 350 / head

The Apron and The Arm #3

Ginger Fish in the steamer

I had a packet of Thai Red Curry paste lying around and first planned to make a simple curry with fish. On seeing my fresh new steamer, I changed my mind and decided to steam the fish instead. I used the curry paste to flavor some brown rice. Since my morning had begun with a nice workout, I wanted to keep things light and easy on the waistline. The only oil in this dish comes from the 2 tablespoons of curry paste.

It was only after I begun ideating and prepping in the kitchen that I realized I had no banana leaves, butter paper or aluminium foil to steam my fish in. So in the midst of cooking, while my rice was being watched over by my partner, I got on my bike and cycled to the grocery store to get me some foil. My dish was so healthy I actually had to workout just to cook it!

Steamed Ginger Lemon Fish with a Red Thai Brown Rice.

The Apron and The Arm #2

Our kitchen smells of warm earthy mangoes, as it should every summer. This morning I was particularly drawn by their sweet sensuous smell and felt compelled to include mango in today’s lunch. I decided to do a very simple Mango & Coconut Chicken Curry. Since I wasn’t in the mood to look up a recipe I cooked by feel, and am quite pleased with the result.

Here’s the recipe

What you need :

• 2 small chicken breasts cut to small bits
• 1 ripe plump Alphonso mango
• 1 pink onion chopped
• 1 yellow bell pepper (optional) chopped
• 1inch stick on ginger grated
• fresh grated coconut 3 tablespoons
• cloves, cinnamon, salt & pepper
• oil of choice

Use half of the grated ginger and half a teaspoon of salt to marinate the chicken. In a saucepan fry the onion, bell pepper, remaining ginger, one tablespoon of grated coconut, about 8 cloves and an inch of cinnamon till the onions & coconut begins to brown. At this point add the chicken and fry till water begins to separate. Keep the lid on, while you get to the best part – the mango.

Pick up a plump ripe mango , cut off the cheeks and scoop out all the flesh. Keep this aside and wait for the chicken to begin boiling in its own juices. Toss in the fleshy bits of mango and let the it simmer. Squeeze out some coconut milk from the remaining grated coconut and add it to the mixture. You’re curry is ready, you can some pepper at the end.

Use packaged coconut cream for richer curry, but I prefer using fresh un-packaged coconut for a more homey feel. The bell pepper does complement sweet mango well, but can be done away with. Serve with simple steamed rice. Serves 2. Takes 25mins.

The Apron and The Arm #1

 Moving out of my parent’s home started with romantic notions of independence and freedom; the much awaited coming of age and what not. For the first six months everything was like a big adventure, even buying fruits at prices my mother would disapprove of. In the beginning I cooked all meals for me and my always-hungry lover. Slowly, and unfortunately, cooking became a dreaded chore and I succumbed to the luxury of having a cook come in and hastily prepare mindless meals. Just after I grudgingly gave up control of my beloved kitchen and gave in to this new routine, she abandoned me. I’m disgruntled.

But on a brighter note, I am donning my apron once again (not that I really gave it up).  Till my cook returns, which I now hope is not too soon, I have decided to cook interesting and healthy lunches everyday; meals that will take under an hour to cook. My brawny half or ‘The Arm’ will do all the more menial work like handing me a spoon, reaching things I cannot, playing mood dependent music and of course washing dishes. So that it’s a fair exchange he will do so without a shirt. I will provide an edible treat, him a visual one.

This was meal #1 : Tamarind Chicken with a minty Tomato Salad and Spiced Rice.

This month’s BBC Good Food Magazine had a Tamarind Chicken recipe, which I altered slightly. The original was designed to be more of a snack, with chunks of chicken on skewers. I made this into a sweet & sour gravy and served it with rice for a better balance of carbs, roughage  and protein.  Since it was a Sunday, we had my parents over for lunch and shared with them this premier meal.

This collaboration of The Apron and The Arm will be documented one dish at a time in a series of blog posts.

Botticino : The Fine Art of Making Ravioli and a Fine Italian feast.

This weekend I was invited by food consultant Nikhil Merchant and Botticino (an Italian restaurant a the Trident) for a very special cooking demonstration followed by lunch. The event was every bit informative and educative as I expected, and I had several firsts, which made the lunch especially memorable.

I spent most of Saturday morning lazily getting ready, drinking  lemon infused water and eating fresh fruit ; preparing my palette for the opulence that would follow. I also began bracing myself for a long lonely drive to Nariman point when thankfully our very thoughtful host, sent a gentle reminder, that the event was at the other  Trident. Who knew there was one tucked away in BKC? Anyway it was perhaps the best news of the day as it meant my lonely drive would not be so long after all. The Suburban Trident is designed more for corporate clients and caters to BKC’s high end office crowd. Bottocino is one of it’s specialty restaurants. ‘Bottocino’ is a province in Italy, which I assume inspires the name.

As soon as I reached I was welcomed with a glass of Prosecco, a dry Italian sparkling wine. Though I enjoy wine as an accompaniment and it is usually my preferred spirit, I do not claim to be very informed about wines. So I willingly listened to all the knowledge shared by the Manager about the Prosecco and all the other wines that followed.

This was followed by an introduction to Grappa, a fragrant grape brandy. This brandy is consumed after a meal, in the form of a shot or even sprayed on post-meal coffee. Incidently Italians describe this Grappa topped coffee as ‘caffe coretto’ or ‘corrected coffee’. The meal ends on a high note, literally.

Finally the cooking demo. So far I had seen pasta being made only on television. Though I love to cook, I had never tried making pasta from scratch and so I was pretty excited about learning the fine art of making Ravioli, which is undoubtedly my favourite form of pasta. My trusty apron went with me but sadly it was a demonstration and I didn’t get a chance to dig my paws into the dough. It was a treat to watch Chef Vikas Vichare’s skillful well-trained hands mould thin sheets of dough and deftly craft Chicken stuffed Ravioli.

The Fine Art of Making Ravioli

After watching mouth-watering food being made, I was obviously hungry and ready to feast. A beautifully laid table waited for us. We were served some Chianti and an amuse bouche. For all the lovely multiple course meals I’ve had, I’ve never been served an amuse bouche. In this case it was the Chef’s special take on the classic Caprese salad; made with the reddest tomatoes I’ve ever seen, fresh mozzarella and basil salt. It did everything an amuse bouche was meant to do, got the juices flowing and set the mood for the courses to follow. Just like foreplay is to the act of love making.

Amuse Bouche

For an entree I chose another of the Chef’s specialties; the Pan Fried Goose Liver. Having never eaten foie gras before I was apprehensive, more for ethical reasons. I’ll try everything once and have no qualms about eating any meat as long as it is bred for consumption. I do however try to be aware of ethical debates where food is concerned and hope for a world where we achieve a balance between our need to consume and our moral/ecological responsibility. This foie gras dish was delicious. The strong fatty liver is an acquired taste, but the sides of potato galletes toned it down perfectly.

( After a little research about foie gras I have come to the conclusion that it isn’t for me. Geese are unnaturally force fed and fattened to make foie gras, which translates to ‘fat liver’. Everyone has an opinion about what is morally correct. To each his own. I have certain boundaries set for myself. Just as I wouldn’t eat shark fin soup, where the rest of the shark is left to die, I don’t feel comfortable eating the liver of a bird that has been unnaturally, brutally fattened. )

Pan Fried Liver Pate & pecorino salad with arugula and balsamic dressing

The meal ended with a Ice Cream platter. When I read this on the menu I wasn’t so excited. I’m not a huge ice cream fan, and was hoping for something more distinctly Italian. These unusual ice cream flavors however, took me by surprise and left me wanting more. Much much more. The Lemon cheesecake flavor was excellent, light and tangy with clumps of buttery biscuit mimicking the cheesecake base. My favourite by far was the Sea Salt and Burnt Sugar ice cream. Strange as it sounds, the salt and sweet caramel created a mind blowing burst of flavor, that had me wanting the next bite before I had swallowed the first. It is by far the best ice cream I have ever had in my life. I will probably go all the way to BKC just to have this glorious creation!

Terttulia (South Main Road, Koregaon Park, Park)

Ate. Drank. Didn’t quite love. ***

The best-friend had been making quite a fuss about a certain Pear & Galangal Martini. So as soon as the sun set on my first night in Pune, we began preparations to hit the place that served it. Tertullia, a place most definitely on the city’s list of the hip and happening.

Being a saturday night the place was full of party-people high on the good life, so we were pretty lucky to get a table. We were met by a lovely hostess with darling dimples who sat us down. The drinks were ordered and the aforementioned Martini lived up to the praise it had received. I highly recommend it, and not just for the ladies.

A small black board at the entranced mentioned a Tapas menu, so we tried a few. First to arrive was a plate of Chicken wings with a Blue Cheese dip, which incidentally we hadn’t ordered. They were consumed non-the-less, very unapologetically. They were delicious, so was the dip which could have done with a bit more zing, something sour an acidic. The Portabella Mushrooms stuffed with Bacon and Cheese were also fairly good. The Karari Roti which was at every table is clearly a crowd pleaser, but has a very distinctly south asian flavor which felt out of place at an otherwise european inspired menu.

My main course of Lamb and root Vegetable ragout with buttered Spaghetti was delectable. My only complaint; one small lonely piece of potato was the only root vegetable on my plate. I also tasted the Vietnamese Fillet of Basa, which was perfectly cooked and laid on a bed of sautéed vegetables. Unfortunately a rookie mistake of serving bitter zucchinis ruined a few bites. Otherwise it was lovely.

As we were finishing our mains, the owner of the place came over to exchange pleasantries. He made some very convincing desert recommendations that had our mouths watering. Our plates were cleared and we waited, and waited and then waited some more. No highly spoken of desserts arrived. The manager forgot to place our order ! And this wasn’t their first slip in service. Service all night was sloppy, we kept having to repeat, prompt, push, non-verbally suggest, sternly look at watch, etc. Which, I must admit, the dimpled hostess made a huge effort to make up for.

Finally the Croissant Pudding arrived with a whiff of warm Bourbon and sugary raisins. Though I’m not a lover of bread pudding, this one had me floored. This rendition was absolutely stellar. The limp coconut cheesecake with a soggy barely-there crust was completely ignored.

Tertullia did give us some memorable dishes but missed top marks in my books for careless mistakes and sloppy tiresome service. I would need the promise of good company to visit again, for the restaurant itself didn’t charm me enough to revisit.

Damages: Approximately 800-1000 Rs without alchohol for a hearty meal.

The name had me curious: the Spanish word ‘tertullia’ is a social gathering of people, usually artists, writers, political activists, poets and other people of refined taste. Similar in meaning and usage to the French word ‘salon’; where people of like-minds come together to share an evening to spirited conversation and revelry.